Stage 14 - Smuggler's Notch to Whitface Shelter on LT and out Beaver Meadow Trail

On Friday, September 4, 2009, a beautiful day n the low 70's without a cloud in the sky, I took a day off to hike up from Smuggler's Notch at the base of Mt. Mansfield (1,600 feet above sea level). Because I have an appointment tomorrow, I am unable to make this an overnight trek. I hit the Long Trail, heading north, at 9:15 am and begin the 2.3 mile climb to Elephant Heads Cliff. I had been told that this was a reasonably challenging climb but, having climbed Mt. Mansfield multiple times over the past few weeks, I find this to be pretty easy going.

About halfway up I catch up with three ladies that are out on the first day of a several day hike. One of them seems to be struggling more than the others. Just after passing them I come upon a clearing that gives me a good view of Mt. Mansfield and I take two pictures. The one above on the right is of the Forehead and Nose, and the one to the left is of the Chin and Adam's Apple.

I reach a 0.1 mile spur that leads steeply down to Elephant's Head Cliff (2,800 ft) and arrive at a view that I last saw in 2007 when I climbed up to here via the Sterling Pond Trail with Charlie Castelli and several Vermont Tech students. The shape of an Elephant's head escapes me in the photo so perhaps it is on the cliffs that are below me. I do not lean out over the major drop (several hundred feet) to try and see. As I reach the LT the three women I passed about 20 minutes ago are standing there trying to decide which way to go. I explain their options to them and one of them immediately says, "I want to see the view" and takes off down the spur. The one I thought was dragging looks at me like I'm evil for suggesting the extra hike has a rewarding view. I tell her this would be a good spot for her to sit and rest while the others hike the spur. I can see that she doesn't want to be viewed as weak by the others so I then suggest that she leave her pack in the brush and hike down. She brightens at this idea and is soon off down the spur. This is day one of a three day hike for her and they've covered less than 3 miles so far. I predict PAIN and SUFFERING for her this Labor Day weekend.

Back on the LT I continue to climb towards Sterling Pond. The trail emerges on a Ski Slope, called Snuffy's Ski Trail (3,080 ft), Snuffy the Snuffleupagus, I assume, and I follow the trail down a short way to the striking Sterling Pond (3,000 ft). At the Pond is a man and his young son and their Golden Lab. The father throws a stick out as far as he can into the pond and the dog retrieves it with no hesitation. I think about joining the dog as it is warm, but instead eat a couple of cookies and drink some Gatorade before pushing on.

In short order I cross another ski trail and reenter the woods to come upon the Sterling Pond Shelter (built in 2005, sleeps 8, 3,030 ft). From there I begin a steady climb to the top of Madonna Peak (3,668 ft), the highest point of today's hike. At the peak is a chairlift and I take a picture facing Northeast from the peak and showing the lift (in all it's beauty). I have hiked exactly five miles so far, most of it up, up, and up. From here I must follow a ski trail down the north side of Madonna Peak. The trail is sparsely marked and I get nervous that I may miss where it reenters the woods. Off in the distance I see Whiteface Mountain and, below the summit, I see a building that I believe is Whiteface Shelter, where I plan to leave the LT. About 50 paces past the intersection of the Chilcoot Ski Trail ( the one I'm on) with the Catwalk Ski Trail, I find a cairn that shows me where the trail re-enters the woods.

I begin to drop steadily until I reach Chilcoot Pass (2,950 ft) and Chilcoot pass trail. Here a sign warns me that I am in imminent danger. I decide to stop here and eat lunch which consists of a roast beef sandwich and Gatorade. While in recline a young hiker from the north joins me. It turns out he graduated in the last couple of years from MIT and is a computer engineer in Boston. I tell him my son went to the University of Chicago. We share a few jokes at the expense of Harvard - If MIT or UChicago students really wanted to make A's they would've gone to Harvard - that sort of thing. We chat for about 15 minutes and it's time to part.

I now begin to climb the south slope of Morse Mountain and soon reach Hagerman Overlook (3,190 ft). The view looks back over Mt. Mansfield one more time. I continue to the height of land on Morse Mountain (3,380 ft). From here I begin to drop to the base of Whiteface Mountain, a mountain that I will tackle in my next hike.

At the base, I come to Whiteface Shelter (built 1958, sleeps 5, 3,156 ft). This is a nice lean-to shelter that faces south and gives me a chance to take a picture of the ground I covered coming off of Madonna Peak. The ski trail coming off the mountain is the one I hiked down earlier. I pause here to drink some more Gatorade and then leave the LT to begin my descent down Whiteface Trail. I have hike 7.3 miles to this point. Whiteface Trail is a 1.0 mile steady descent down Whiteface that, in short order, intersects with the Beaver Meadow Trail.

At the intersection with the Beaver Meadow Trail (2,165 ft) I decide to turn right and work my way over to Beaver Meadow Lodge. The trail quickly thins out and after about 0.2 miles I come to a most interesting building labeled Burling Camp (I wonder if the owners are from Burling-ton). I enter cautiously and discover a stove and several bunks along with a built in table.
The place reeks of mold and I doubt if I could spend five minutes inside, let alone a night. The trail is so thin I give up trying to find the lodge and figure I will find it on my next hike. I retrace my steps back to Beaver Meadow Trail.

As I suspected, Beaver Meadow Trail is a wonderful way to end the day. the downward slope is mild and the trail is wide and well-worn. I cover the 2.3 miles very rapidly, probably averaging three miles and hour. I arrive at the trail head (1,550 ft) , however, and have a decision to make. The trail abruptly ends at a steel gate and intersects with an unimproved road. I must decide whether to turn left (up) or right (down) to get to my car. I choose the easier route, right, and am rewarded about 15 minutes later when I arrive at my car and the end of the hike. It is 4:15 pm and I have covered just over 11 miles (in 7.0 hours). My feet are sore but, other than that, I've had no threats of cramps or side-stitches. I feel very good and am glad to have taken this beautiful day to hike. Hopefully, I'll be fully recovered over the weekend as I hope to get out again on Monday.